Volcán Barú: Another tick off the bucket list!

I’ve been captivated by Volcán Barú since the first time I laid eyes on her on our first trip to Boquete in 2010. Even then, the idea to climb Barú someday got stuck in my brain and she landed on our bucket list.

Finally last weekend, after almost two years of living here, I got my wish. (John wisely took a pass on this one because, to paraphrase him, he’s saving his knees for Machu Picchu!) The “road” to the top is mostly a horrible, rutted, and rocky dirt track that can only be managed by extremely tough, high-clearance 4WD vehicles with huge tires. It took us about 7.5 hours to hike the 9.2 miles with a total elevation gain of 5,500 feet. I can honestly say the hike was one of the most physically challenging things I’ve ever done, and also one of the most rewarding.

Here are some Volcán Barú factoids: at 3,475 meters (11,400 feet) she is the tallest point in Panama. On a clear morning it’s possible to see both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans from the top, as well as several distant points into Costa Rica. Barú is an important communications hub for most of western Panama and the top is covered in antennas.

As this adventure has taken shape in the past few months, I haven’t gotten much encouragement from other folks who have made the climb. Their comments were pretty much along these lines:  A) There’s not much to see on the way up and it’s really ugly on top. B) You’ll probably have terrible weather and won’t be able to see the views. C) If you’re camping, you’ll have the most uncomfortable night of your life. And D) That hike is only for people in super-fantastic condition (I tried not to take offense at that one – ha!).

OK, negative people, I’m now in your ranks and here is my categorical response: A) It was a beautiful climb up. We saw ancient forests, many birds, and flowers that don’t grow down in the valley. And yes, the top was not a garden spot, unless you like antenna farms and graffiti.  But the views made it worth it. B) We were blessed with fantastic, almost perfect weather! C) Yup, not a lot of fun sleeping on an old mattress on the floor of the police building, but doable. We felt lucky – plenty of people were up there camping out in the cold and rough. And finally – you tactful D) person – this 57-year-old has still got it going ON!!

Heading out, fresh and ready!

A lovely hillside sheep farm, about 4 km up

More sheep farm loveliness

The flowers at about 10,000 feet were abundant and beautiful

. . . and included many that don’t grow down in Boquete.

These lady slippers are our guide’s favorite.

After hiking for many hours, a lovely view comes into sight – the antennas on top!

A while later – the mist clears and the antennas are even closer! We still had a tough ascent ahead of us, though.

Finally – La Cima!

Above the clouds

Late afternoon view of “cross hill,” the topmost point

Looking down at the antenna farm from “cross hill”

Fantastic sunset photo taken by Andrea Cook

Another great shot by Andrea

Our cozy digs for the night. Four of us slept in this room, together with Orlando the snoring police captain, and three more of us slept in another room on the floor.

The next morning – waiting for the sunrise with a friendly group from Brazil

A new day begins!

In the distance you can make out the Pacific coastline

Squint very hard and you can see the Caribbean coastline here

The cross hill in the emerging daylight

This crazy person had climbed up on the cross to unfurl a Panamanian flag

Overnight, hoards of tour vehicles (and lots of private ones) had made the trek up bringing loads of people to see the sunrise

These two are headed back down that crazy road

Time for us to strike out for the bottom

Goodby, La Cima!

Sadly, there was quite a bit of strewn trash toward the top. We helped our guide, Cesar, do some cleanup

Did I mention the road down is CRAZY for vehicles? Glad we were walking!

At about 8,000 feet – the new zipline course is coming along

The tired but happy group at the end