After sailing to Isla Mujeres, Mexico in 2004, we returned in 2017. And we weren’t sure what we’d find.
As a lot of our readers know, from 2001 to 2004 we traveled coastal Mexico and Central America aboard our 42-foot sailboat. Twice we visited Banderas Bay and Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, and we have many wonderful memories of both visits. The first time we visited Banderas Bay in 2001, we dropped anchor in a beautiful bay just off the sleepy little fishing town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, just a few miles up the coast from Puerto Vallarta. The dinghy landing beach was just off Ana Banana’s, the quintessential beach bar/hangout joint. We whiled away many fun hours there with our fellow cruisers, enjoying margaritas and mellow music.
In 2009 we decided to take a vacation back to Puerto Vallarta and Banderas Bay. In eight years, PV had lost a lot of its exotic charm and had transformed into a smoggy, traffic-clogged city dealing with too many people and other growing pains. But La Cruz was the real heartbreaker. The quaint, undiscovered bay was in throes of development. A huge, modern new marina had taken over most of the anchorage, and Ana Banana’s had lost its waterfront – and dinghy beach – to a giant condominium project. Ah, progress.
Fast-forward to early 2017.
I was approaching burnout with my work and in desperate need of a beach fix, and we were both craving REAL Mexican food. Almost in unison, two words popped into our heads: Isla Mujeres!
In 2004, we’d spent an idyllic two weeks on this small island just off the Mexican Yucatan, a 20-minute ferry ride from Cancun, waiting for weather to make the crossing to Key West, Florida, in our boat. It felt risky going back — would we have the same experience as our 2009 trip to Puerto Vallarta? Would the charm be gone, and would the place be spoiled by too many tourists and runaway growth?
The news is good.
There has been some growth and development, including a few multi-story beach hotels that weren’t there before (we stayed in one, the Ixchel Beach Hotel, which we highly recommend), but Isla Mujeres still has its charm, even after being hit by a major hurricane a few years ago. The sand is just as soft and white, the Mexican food is just as divine (especially in the mercado and the cheap little street joints), and the margaritas are potent as ever. The marina is larger and more modern but the anchorage is essentially the same, filled with cruising sailboats. A two-hour flight from Panama City, Isla is one place we know we’ll return to, again and again.