Things to Do in Mexico City: Beyond Centro

In our previous post, we described our experiences in and around Mexico City’s Centro Historico district – the beating heart of the city and ground zero for Mexico’s history as a unified country. In this post, we’ll roam a little further afield and look at our favorite things to do in Mexico City beyond the Centro district.

NOTE: As always, photos are in galleries. Just click the first to click through larger versions of each.

1. Experience the Pyramids of Teotihuacan

Well, this one really is further afield – about an hour’s drive northeast of Mexico City. But it’s so worth it. The enigmatic city of Teotihuacan was once the largest city in pre-Columbian America, peaking sometime around the first century AD. The pyramids themselves are recognized as some of the most architecturally significant from that period. Teotihuacan is thought to be a religious center; in fact, its name means something like “birthplace of the gods” in Nahuatl.  There’s speculation about exactly who the ancient residents were, occupying Teotihuacan centuries before the Aztec Mexica people arrived to settle what is now modern-day Mexico City.

The Temple of the Moon

The stone head looking down on this dude is thought to be Quetzalcóatl, the Aztecs’ serpent god

Looking up the Avenue of the Dead towards the Temple of the Moon.

Our tour guide demonstrated how the ancients used plants to create dyes for adorning their temples. This brilliant red is made from parasitic insects that live in cactus pads.

Ancient street art – a jaguar

The Temple of the Sun

The Temple of the Sun is immense. Until recently, visitors could climb to the top, but no more.

Tip: We took a group tour to Teotihuacan through Get Your Guide, which also included a stop at the Virgin of Guadalupe Basilica (see next). The main advantage was that transportation was taken care of, and the tour also included a stop at a souvenir/artisan shop (kinda cheesy) and a nice lunch at a Mexican restaurant just outside the pyramid grounds. 

2. Visit the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe

It’s hard to overstate how important the Virgin of Guadalupe is to the Mexican people. It turns out, Mexico City is ground zero for the series of miracles that have made Our Lady central to so many Mexican hearts and minds. In a previous post, we wrote more about about how the Virgin presented herself to an indigenous man, Juan Diego, in 1531 on Tepeyac Hill in what is now Mexico City. Whether you’re a believer or not, it’s a cool story – and Mexicans’ devotion to the Virgin is profound and deeply moving.

The Basilica complex is anchored by two monumental buildings – the original church, completed in 1709, and the modern, green-domed basilica. In the modern cathedral, you can view Juan Diego’s actual tilma (a type of cloak) imprinted with the Virgin’s image.

The basilica complex, with the modern cathedral on the left and the original church on the right. (Photo credit: Juan Carlos Fonseca Mata)

Interior, modern cathedral

The original tilma of Juan Diego bearing the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, on display in the modern Basilica.

The original basilica has sunk so much that steps and ramps lead visitors down to the entrance.

Every day, scores of visitors come to the Basilica to pray to the Virgin.

3. Take a Cruise in Xochimilco

The Mexico City borough of Xochimilco is best known for its network of canals, vestiges of Lake Texcoco – the lake upon which the Mexicas founded Mexico back in the early 14th century. (Again, we tell more of the story in a previous post.) Today, a large fleet of colorful, gondola-like boats called trajineras ply the canals and offer access to the chinampas, man-made islands that have been used for agriculture since Mexica times. Many of the chinampas are still under cultivation today, with nurseries selling all types of plants and flowers to the public. For all of these reasons, Xochimilco has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The trajineras are a big tourist draw, but they’re also hugely popular with locals looking to celebrate with a floating fiesta. Vendors float by offering all kinds of snacks, beverages, and souvenirs, and you can even hire a floating mariachi group to serenade your boat. For a fun, relaxing, and oh-so-Mexican experience, a cruise on a trajinera can’t be beat!

Tips: Any taxi or Uber driver will know where to take you for the best access to the canals and trajineras. It’s easy to hire a boat from any of the docks – you should be able to negotiate a price under $500 pesos (about $25) per hour. Take a group and split the cost – most trajineras can accommodate up to 20 people. Fridays and weekends are party days for Mexicans; for a more tranquil experience, go during the week.

Trajineras as far as the eye can see . . .

Yes, it was raining. But still fun.

This party is getting under way.

We floated by several chinampas operating as nurseries.

This lady is selling elotes (roasted corn on the cob).

Mariachis serenading one of the boats

PARTY!! These kids were having so much fun.

4. Follow Diego and Frida’s Footsteps in Coyoacán and San Ángel

The pretty Mexico City borough of Coyoacán (Nahuatl for Place of Coyotes) is well-known as the birthplace of Frida Kahlo, but we didn’t realize that it was also the first capital of New Spain after conquistador Hernán Cortés conquered the Mexica in 1521. Cortés set up residence in Coyoacán for several years following the conquest.

Although it was something I’d dreamed of for a long time, we decided to take a pass on Frida’s Casa Azul – the Coyoacán house of her birth and also her death, now one of the most popular museums in all of Mexico. We’d heard from more than one party that it’s something of a tourist trap, and most of Frida’s most important artwork is elsewhere. Still, I regret passing it up . . . next time, I guess. If you want to see Casa Azul, be aware that you need to buy tickets well in advance, and photos are not allowed. More info here.

Not far from Coyoacán is another picturesque and historic town, San Ángel. Anchored by the landmark El Carmen monastery, San Ángel is also known for the side-by-side homes and studios of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Designed by noted artists and architect (and close friend of Diego and Frida) Juan O’Gorman, the houses are connected by an elevated walkway – and Diego lived there until his death in 1954. San Ángel borders University City, the sprawling campus of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM).

The coyote-themed fountain in Coyoacán’s Zocalo

The Casa Municipal, built in the 18th century by descendants of Cortés

A quiet moment on the steps of the San Juan Bautista church

Coyoacán calle

San Ángel’s landmark El Carmen church

Beautiful tiled fountain in the Casa del Risco, San Ángel

Diego and Frida’s side-by-side houses in San Ángel

The UNAM main campus, with the famous Central Library featuring murals by Juan O’Gorman

Entrance to the UNAM Olympic Stadium, with mural by Diego Rivera

5. If you don’t go to any other museums, visit these two.

Mexico is a city of museums; in fact, there are over 150. Of course we didn’t have time to visit them all, but the two that stood out for us are the National History Museum in Chapultepec Castle and the Anthropology Museum. These two should be at the top of the list for any CDMX visitor. TIP: It’s possible to see both in one day; they’re within easy walking distance to each other.

Perched atop a high hill in Chapultepec Park, the Chapultepec Castle/National History Museum has a storied history. Built in 1785 as the summer home of the Viceroy of New Spain, the castle has also served as a military academy, observatory, the royal residence of  Emperor Maximilian I and Empress Carlota,  and official residence of Mexico’s presidents up until the 1930s. Chapultepec Castle became the home of the National History Museum in 1939.

The Niños Heroes live forever in front of the Castle.

Monument to the Niños Heroes at the entrance to Chapultepec Park

At the museum, you’ll see reminder after reminder of the fabled Niños Héroes. These were six young military cadets (the youngest only 13) who died defending the castle against the United States during the Battle of Chapultepec, in the final days of the Mexican-American War in 1847. The martyred Niños have reached celestial status in Mexico, honored with a national holiday and monuments all over the country.

A scenic walkway up the hill leads you to this elaborate gate

Side entrance to the Castle

The Castle is filled with impressive murals and beautiful stained glass.

Santa Anna’s wooden leg! All Texas schoolkids know who Santa Anna is.

Famous mural by Juan O’Gorman depicting the birth of Mexican independence

Lavish dining room

The music room

The rooftop garden and observatory

Lovely stained glass

Historic carriages

The Castle has commanding views of Mexico City’s downtown district.

The National Museum of Anthropology is a true national treasure, honoring the rich history and cultures of the many indigenous nations whose presence is still felt deeply throughout Mexico. The museum’s current home was built in 1964 and consists of 24 exhibit halls. On the ground floor are the Archaeology Halls, each highlighting a different pre-Columbian civilization. The largest is devoted to the Mexicas, founders of the sophisticated city/state that would become Mexico City. On the second floor are the Ethnography Halls, tracing the vivid cultures of present-day indigenous groups throughout Mexico.

The monumental fountain in the museum’s atrium

Entrance to the Mexica hall

The famous Sun Stone of the Mexica

Beautiful stone carving

Gleeful little fellows

Is that a witch’s hat or are you just happy to see me?

The Mexica god of the dead

Grinning puma

The surrounding gardens also contain exhibits.

An enigmatic Olmec head. The Olmecs were the oldest Mesoamerican civilization.

A beautiful Tree of Life

Colorful folk art from the Ethnology floor

Indigenous traditions that live today

6. Stroll Roma and Condesa

Mexico City’s Roma Norte and Roma Sud neighborhoods, bordered by Condesa, were originally developed for the city’s wealthiest residents in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. By the 1950s the neighborhoods were in serious decline, and many homes and buildings were devastated by the great earthquake of 1985. But in the past couple of decades, gentrification has transformed Roma Norte, Roma Sud, and Condesa into Mexico City’s hipster epicenter, with an unrivaled culinary scene and many beautiful restored Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco buildings and fountains that harken back to a different era.

The famous David fountain in Plaza Rio de Janeiro

The classical Fuente de Cibeles

The lovely Parque Mexico

Dog walker, Parque Mexico

Dog obedience class. There’s always one . . .

Parque Mexico is filled with these 1920s signs. This one says something like “Every example you set to your children to respect this park raises their moral level and their culture.”

Roma Norte kindergarten

This beautiful old mansion is now a hotel.

Another stunning Art Nouveau building

Another classical fountain. Roma is filled with them.

Flower-festooned building

This fountain is a little more modern, from the 1920s.

Other Tips

Lodging. Upon our return to Mexico City after visiting the beautiful towns of Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende (posts coming!), we spent two more nights before flying home to Colombia. This time we stayed in the Condesa district, in the Casa Condesa Amatlan. This boutique hotel was perfectly situated within walking distance to Parque de Chapultepec, the Chapultepec Castle, and the Anthropology Museum. It was also a great base for exploring more of Condesa and Roma Norte, with restaurants galore.

Here were our favorite dining experiences in Roma Norte and Condesa:

• Contramar. John made our reservations well before our trip for the fantastic seafood restaurant. It was well worth the effort – I’m getting hungry just looking at their website!
• Vecchio Forno. Outstanding Italian food and super-friendly servers. After almost three weeks in Mexico, wewere craving anything that wasn’t a taco – and Vecchio Forno filled the bill.
• La Vineria. This cozy little spot was on the same block as our hotel. Eclectic menu and great wine list.
• Fonda Garufa. Our hotel host suggested this spot for breakfast, and it was fantastic.

  

  

• Sala Gastronómica. This is the fabulous restaurant inside the Museum of Anthropology prides itself on its menu inspired by six regions of Mexico, including a unique take on corn. A great place to take a break and enjoy a lovely meal while you’re visiting the museum.
• El Tizoncito. This friendly joint claims to have invented tacos al pastor (although it’s not the only one to make that claim!). At any rate, those tacos were delicious, washed down with a cold Indio.

Coming Next: Guanajuato – A Luminous City!

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