Lisbon, Portugal is dreamy.
After four nights in crowded-but-wondrous Porto, we arrived by train to Lisbon – one of the most beautiful cities we’ve ever visited, and also one of the oldest. Like Porto, this fabled European capital blankets rolling hills and is situated on a major estuary, in this case the Tagus. But Lisbon has a mystique and culture all its own, rooted in many centuries of history and different civilizations.
Lisbon is OLD. At least, old in human terms. Lisbon is Europe’s second oldest capital city (after Athens), originally occupied by pre-Celtic and Celtic tribes many centuries before Christ. A parade of civilizations – Phoenicians, Romans, Germanic tribes such as the Visigoths, and Moors – occupied Lisbon before the city was conquered in 1147 by Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal. Lisbon has been the capital of Portugal for almost a thousand years!
Lisbon is a city of panoramic viewpoints. Nicknamed the City of Seven Hills, Lisbon is famous for its miradouros (lookouts) – and you don’t have to walk far to treat yourself to a stunning view (you’ll do some huffing and puffing, though). Strategically located at the mouth of the Tagus River, Lisbon over the centuries has offered a perfect natural port that could be easily defended by numerous fortifications from on high. As a result, Lisbon became the world’s first maritime superpower and was a global crossroads for the spice trade.
Lisbon is ground zero for azulejos. What are azulejos, you ask? They’re the beautiful tiles (usually blue and white) that you’ll find adorning churches and many other types of buildings all over Portugal. The Moors brought azulejos (from the Arabic word az-zellij, meaning tiling or polished stone) to Lisbon back in the 8th century, and they were prized not only as an art form but as a durable means of protecting structures from the elements. Today you can’t walk a Lisbon block without seeing beautifully adorned buildings, many of which are centuries old.
Here are our highlights from our whirlwind visit to Lisbon last fall. We’ll be back!
Miradouro da Graça
This lookout was one of our favorite places in Lisbon. Perched on the city’s highest hill, the beautiful Miradouro da Graça is a long, pine-shaded public terrace with a relaxed local vibe and breathtaking views. While there, visit Igreja da Graça, a church and convent with origins in medieval times. The beautiful church, with its macabre azulejos depicting the brutal martyrdom of saints, is worth a visit in its own right. But the real draw is the rooftop terrace, where the city views are even more spectactular. And the included glass of wine doesn’t hurt!
TIPS: If you’re not up for climbing the hill, you can reach Miradouro da Graça via the brand-new Funicular da Graça or the #28 street tram. Admission to the Igreja da Graça terrace is €5, but it includes a glass of wine or other beverage of your choice.
Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
We visited this park in the late afternoon as part of our explorations of the vibrant restaurant scene just adjacent. The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is a gorgeous spot, with scores of local families, street musicians, and refreshment vendors giving it a “public living room” feel. The views are nothing short of spectacular, but the pretty landscaping and relaxed vibe make you want to sit and stay awhile. Be sure and look for the map made of azulejos that will help you identify some of Lisbon’s most iconic landmarks in the distance, including the Avenida da Liberdade, Restauradores, the Praça dos Restauradores, the Baixa district, and the Castelo de São Jorge.
TIPS: Both the #28 tram and the historic Elevador da Glória go right up to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. The park is part of LIsbon’s vibrant Bairro Alto neighborhood, with its countless art galleries, bars, and restaurants.
Elevador Santa Justa
Because Lisbon is such a hilly city, residents have created some innovative ways to get themselves to higher neighborhoods. One example is the Elevador Santa Justa, built in 1902 to connect the waterfront Baixa district to the higher-level Carmo neighborhood. This Lisbon landmark features ornate filigree details that recall the Eiffel Tower, and the views from the top are spectacular!
TIPS: The Elevador Santa Justa is a popular tourist attraction, which means there are often long lines to ride up (tickets are about €7). But you don’t have to ride the elevator to get to the top. Just walk a couple of blocks south on Rua do Carmo (just behind the tower) and look for an arched stairway in the building on the right. Take the stairs all the way up and you’ll find the walkway to the top of the Elevador.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo
You might not think a museum dedicated to artisan tile work would be very exciting, but the Museu Nacional do Azulejo is fabulous. The museum is housed in the 16th-century Madre de Deus Convent, with its spectacular chapel adorned with elaborate azulejo displays. To walk through the Museu is to take a history lesson in one of Portugal’s most recognized art forms. Some of the tiles on display date back to the 15th century, and the tile art is beautifully displayed. Don’t miss the top-floor exhibit with a room-sized landscape of tiles depicting Lisbon in the 1700s.
TIPS: The Museu Nacional do Azulejo is open every day EXCEPT Monday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Admission is €8.
The National Coach Museum
Our love affair with historic coaches probably began when we visited the Gallery of Coaches at the Palace of Versailles a few years back. Lisbon’s National Coach Museum is several times larger, with a dazzling collection of opulent and ornate royal carriages and sedan chairs dating from the 16th through the 19th centuries.
TIPS: The National Coach Museum is closed on Mondays and open every other day from 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Admission is €8.
Campo de Orique
If we ever found ourselves in Lisbon long-term (don’t tempt us!), we’d hang our hats in Campo de Ourique. Our tour guide, Kate, steered us there after mentioning that it’s her home ‘hood and that we would really enjoy the market. Campo de Orique is very residential and has a lived-in, homey vibe. We could easily see ourselves spending a few months there.
The Mercado de Campo de Orique is a must-visit attraction in the neighborhood. As one of Lisbon’s oldest public markets, the Mercado today houses stall after stall of gourmet bites and libations, together with an array of small bistros. It reminded us of Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel, albeit much less crowded. We loved our lunch there.
Alfama and Baixa Districts
These two adjacent neighborhoods are Lisbon’s most well-known and arguably most picturesque. Alfama is one of Lisbon’s oldest areas, lined with cafes and shops selling traditional crafts. Baixa is the historic heart and commercial center of Lisbon and also the city’s most touristic area.
Baixa’s most well-known landmark is the Praça do Comércio, a huge and beautiful plaza on the Tagus waterfront. The Praça do Comércio is historically the great “reception hall” for Lisbon visitors arriving by sea, including foreign royalty and heads of state.
TIP: Skip the many bars and restaurants lining the Praça do Comércio – they’re geared to tourists and are typically overpriced, with mediocre food and service. There are much better options just a few blocks away.
Lisbon’s Iconic Tram Line
Lisbon’s famed network of streetcars has served the city since 1873, and many of the cars are 1930s-vintage and beautifully preserved. The most popular with tourists is the #28 or #28E line, which winds all the way from the Alfama district up to Campo de Orique – passing through many of Lisbon’s most scenic and historic neighborhoods.
Tips: The line to board the #28 at its beginning in Alfama can be long and the cars will be packed, especially at the height of tourist season in summer and early fall. Instead of boarding there, get up to Campo de Orique via Uber or taxi and then catch the tram down. You’ll avoid the lines and probably snag a seat! Just pay the fare when you board, about €3. If you know you’ll be riding the trams a lot, purchase a Viva Viagem ticket at any Metro station that will give you hop-on, hop-off access. There can be pickpockets on the trams, so mind your belongings.
Free Walking Tour
If you’re a regular reader of our blog (you are, right?), you know we love free walking tours. On our first day in a new city, we usually try to take a walking tour to get oriented and bookmark places we’d like to revisit later. We really enjoyed our Lisbon city tour with Kate through Take Free Tours. Now, Kate has struck out on her own, offering personalized tours for Lisbon visitors. You can contact her at legendary.lisbon@gmail.com, or visit her Instagram: #legendary_lisbon.
Getting There and Getting Around
We took the train from Porto to Lisbon, which took about five hours. It was altogether a smooth, comfortable, and enjoyable ride (be sure and check out the senior discount if you qualify).
Most of Lisbon’s miradouros and other attractions are reachable via the Lisbon tram or one of the city’s four funiculars (cable-driven rail cars): Glória, Lavra, Bica, or Graça. But if you’re not in the mood to deal with long lines, Uber is the way to go. The app works beautifully in Lisbon and we never waited more than 10 minutes for a car. In our opinion, the best thing about Uber (especially in a country where you don’t speak the language) is that the driver already knows where to go because you plugged it into the app, and no money changes hands – your card is automatically charged when the ride’s over. And it’s easy to get back in touch with the driver if you (oops) leave something in the car.
Accommodations
We had a bit of a hiccup with our lodgings in Lisbon. Our Airbnb cancelled just a few weeks before our trip, so we had to scramble and find another place. We chose the Golden Lisbon Hotel, a very nice property with excellent staff just a couple of blocks from the Praça do Comércio. It was quite a bit over our usual budget, but with a marathon and a film festival going on in Lisbon, our options were limited. Lesson learned: Because Lisbon is so popular, have a couple of other reservations in your back pocket – and book many months in advance.
Food and Beverage
- Baixamar for outstanding seafood and past dishes at a surprisingly decent price. It’s only three blocks from Praça do Comércio, so eat here instead of one of those overpriced places right on the plaza.
- Paquito, a hole-in-the-wall, local spot in a neighborhood near the Museu de Azuleos. We had a yummy lunch there for a shockingly low price – about €6 each.
- Leonetta. We had a wonderful pasta dinner at this stylish but local Italian place, just a block from the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara.
Hanging with my hometown friend Billie at Trinidade - Trinidade. This beautiful restaurant is one of Lisbon’s oldest breweries, located in a former convent. We had a great dinner there and enjoyed meeting up with old friends from my hometown, Billie and Mario. From dry West Texas all the way to Lisbon – does the world get any smaller?
- Pastéis de Belém. True confession: I go weak-kneed for pastéis de nata, the delectable custard tarts that are Portugal’s most famous pastry. Pastéis de Belém has been making these addictive treats since 1837 using an ancient recipe from the monks of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos.
- Quiosque Belém. This friendly little kiosk, just across from the National Palace, is a nice place to kick back and enjoy ginjinha, a type of cherry liqueur that’s unique to Portugal.
- LUMI. This rooftop bar at the Lumiares Hotel is a nice place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail and some dazzling sunset views.
Have you been to Lisbon? Tell us your favorites!
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25 Comments
I love old cities, especially those that survived long enough to offer modern conveniences! The blue and white tiles are my favorite. So beautiful!
Thanks, Mimi! I really got obsessed with those azulejos. So many beautiful patterns and colors.
Fantastic blog post with lots of great insights and information. Brian and I have travelled extensively in Portugal with our motorhome, but we have only spent a day in Lisbon ( when we visited with a cruise).
This post highlights that just one day in Lisbon is not enough.
I would love to return there for a longer stay.
Thanks so much, Gilda! Four days in Lisbon was not nearly enough for us, either. We have a long list of things we want to visit when we go back.
We are actually in Porto now and were in Lisbon earlier this week. When I saw this I thought maybe we’d just crossed paths, but I guess we did by a few months 😊 It sounds like you enjoyed Lisbon more than Porto We’ve only been here a day but we like Porto’s grittier edge and riverfront. Both are incredible and The Azulejo museum is probably my favourite place. Maggie
Ha, just a “few” months! We were there last October. Let’s just say I’m a LITTLE behind on my posting 🙂 Seriously, I hope our paths cross someday. How crowded is it in Porto right now?
Not bad, at least comapared to Lisbon which had 1 1/2 hour line ups. But much worse than the smaller towns we saw I between.
You had the reverse of our experience – Porto was jam-packed and Lisbon wasn’t so bad. And this was October. I guess there’s no predicting how and when to avoid the tourist crowds now.
Thanks so much for your fabulous summary. You really have tempted me to return to Lisbon as I just didn’t do it justice the first time. Mel
Thanks, Mel. We feel the same way – 4 days wasn’t nearly enough time for us in Lisbon. We’ll go back someday 🙂
Another great post – thanks for the wealth of info on one of my favorite cities. Steven and I hope to return to Portugal some day as we spent far too short a time in Portugal our only time there. If/when we return, your tips will come in very handy!
Thanks, Annie – we know the feeling. Four days was not nearly enough for us to really get to the heart of this amazing city. We will go back someday! 🙂
One day I’ll get there! 🙂 Thanks for the wonderful overview of what Lisboa has to offer. I really liked the idea of the accordion artist on the balcony!
Thanks Liesbet! You WILL see Lisbon someday. The accordion player was so enterprising – he was easier to spot from further off, and his music carried further. Very enterprising!
A wonderful guide to an incredible city, looks like you had a great time and absolutely perfect weather 🙂
Thank you, Han! We did have great weather and a fantastic experience in Lisbon. 🙂
This is such a great guide to Lisbon. I would love to see this beautiful city one of these days 🙂
Thanks, Meg! We hope you get to travel to Lisbon someday.
You two never seem to ever get. tired. Thanks for taking me along with you. Cheers, Muriel
Thanks for coming along with us, Muriel! Hope you’re well 🙂
I have long wanted to go to Portugal, and this post shows me why. What a beautiful city.
Alison
Thanks, Alison! Hope you can get to Portugal someday. We’ve only been to Porto, Lisbon, and the Algarve. There’s sooooo much more to see. Hope you two are well!
If this blog post doesn’t whet someone’s appetite to taste, feel, and see Lisbon, I don’t know what would. The Portuguese capital really shines through your beautiful photos. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that many of your readers have been dreaming of visiting this city one day, including me.
Ah, Bama, you are too kind! Thanks for your comments. Hope you can visit Lisbon and Portugal someday. By the same token, you’ve whetted our appetites to visit Indonesia!
Lovely post! You saw much more than we did when we were here in the spring! Looks like you had lovely weather too! Lisbon just seems to have a view of something interesting every corner you turn! Lori