Ten years as expats. Time flies!
Earlier this year, we reached a big milestone: ten years living outside our birth country of the United States. After beginning with three years in Panama, we’ve spent the last seven in Colombia.
In reflecting on the past decade, it’s been challenging to boil down such a life-changing experience into a few pithy paragraphs. So we’re taking a different approach here – with questions and answers based on the real-life questions we get, all the time, from folks we meet on our travels. (The question “Where are you from” might be pretty straightforward for most people, but the answer’s a bit more complex for us!)
What made you decide to retire abroad?
The seeds for this dream started germinating back in 2001, when we took three years off our careers to go voyaging on our sailboat. We pointed the bow south out of San Francisco Bay and sailed through Pacific Mexico and the Sea of Cortez, and then down to Central America and through the Panama Canal. We ended up in Florida in 2004, where we resumed our careers and started saving in earnest for our retirement. There’s a lot more to say about that voyage, but it ignited a passion for travel and exploring new places that has stayed with us ever since.
Fast forward to 2015. We were living in California, the state with the third highest cost of living in the U.S. John was nearing 60, and I was 55. We realized that both of us would have to keep working, maybe for many years, if we stayed there. The healthcare system was just as broken then as it is now. And we were both anxious for a change of scene and new horizons. Moving to a country with a low cost of living would enable John to retire early and for us to build up our retirement savings even more.
How did you wind up in Colombia?
After plenty of research and two trips there to “kick the tires,” we moved initially to Boquete, Panama. Although we really enjoyed our lives there and made wonderful friends, we were restless after three years. Boquete has a huge foreign population consisting mostly of North Americans, which makes it a great landing pad for “newby” expats. But we also found it too easy to just “hang with the gringos,” and we weren’t really progressing with our Spanish or making many Panamanian friends. We’re certainly not trying to throw shade at the fantastic expat community; it just wasn’t the experience we were looking for.
But probably the biggest driver was the extreme weather: Half the year, Boquete is drowning in rainfall (measured in FEET, rather than inches), and the other half is dry and windy. And when we say windy, we mean months of constant powerful wind with gusts that can take your breath away. The flying dust and smoke from crop burning enhance the experience.
We made a visit to Medellín, Colombia in 2016 and were captivated. We fell in love with the scenery, the perfect weather, the culture, and especially, the wonderful Colombian people. We felt it was a place where we could spread our wings, improve our Spanish, and make local friends. A place where we could build a life. After two more exploratory trips to make sure Medellín was the right fit, we made the move with our two dogs in November 2018.
Tell us about the town where you live now, El Retiro.
We discovered El Retiro during the Covid pandemic. In Medellín we had just weathered one of the world’s strictest quarantines, and when the city came roaring back to life, it felt noisy and chaotic. We were looking for peace and quiet, gorgeous scenery, and clean air (Medellín is notorious for its air pollution). And with two aging pups, we wanted to find a home with some outdoor space to give them a better quality of life. El Retiro ticked all the boxes.
El Retiro is a charming colonial town higher up in the Andes (at 2,500 meters) about an hour from Medellín. The population is about 20,000, but that includes all the little veredas (rural districts) up in the surrounding mountains. It’s only about 30 minutes from the international airport (always a must for us), but it feels worlds away from the bustle of the city. El Retiro is an extremely walkable town, and sometimes we’ll go days without getting in our car. It’s an easy walk to our favorite produce shop, supermarket, great cafes and restaurants, and doctor appointments. The air is fresh and clean, and life is calmer and less complicated.
Here’s more about El Retiro, in a post we wrote just after we moved there almost four years ago. (Side note: It’s quite something to read all the references to Covid and the pandemic. It all seems so long ago now!)
What are the pros of life in Colombia?
The low cost of living. Prices for groceries, housing (both rentals and properties for purchase), and incidentals is much, much lower than that in California and most other places in the U.S. We have realized our retirement savings will go a lot further here, which is enabling us to travel more.
The excellent and affordable healthcare. Colombia’s health system consistently scores very high (often above the US) on metrics such as affordability, accessibility, and quality of care. Here’s a post we did a couple of years ago about how the healthcare system works, and our experience with it. There is one rather large caveat: Recently, the government announced that people applying for new M visas (also known as the retirement visa) are no longer eligible for the Colombian national healthcare program. Other types of visas are not affected, as far as we know. And, like so many things in Colombia, this is subject to change. The next presidential election is coming in May 2026, and it’s always possible that the M visa eligibility will return under the new regime. Also, private health insurance is available for everyone at a very reasonable cost.
The fabulous climate. El Retiro weather is consistently spring-like year round, with temperatures rarely topping 26 celsius during the day nor dipping below 12 at night. We do get a lot of rain, which keeps things beautifully green and delivers some dramatic skies, like the one pictured above.
The breathtaking natural beauty. We have made two road trips through different parts of Colombia, and we’re always floored by the natural splendor of this country. Colombia has been ranked the second most biodiverse country in the world, and the first for orchid and bird species – making it a mecca for bird enthusiasts. From the gorgeous beaches of the Caribbean coast to the emerald Andes, Colombia always knocks our socks off!
The people. Colombians are the salt of the earth, and their resourcefulness and optimism are a true inspiration. It’s especially evident in the older folks, who lived through tough times during “la violencia” in the ’80s and ’90s. For the most part, Colombians are laid back, fun-loving, and extremely family-oriented, and their respect for their elders is admirable. And Colombians are some of the kindest, most helpful people we’ve ever come across.
What are the cons?
Like most, if not all countries around the world, Colombia can be pretty bureaucratic. It’s taken us time, trial and error, and no small amount of cursing to figure out the healthcare system, for instance (but we’ve got it wired now). Another strange thing about Colombia is that businesses are extremely reluctant to take our money! Making a payment, especially for a large purchase like a car or real estate, can take days (or weeks) and be loaded with red tape. And, just as in Panama, people move at a different pace here. “Mañana” might not mean tomorrow, but the next day, or even the next week. We’ve learned to slow down, take a breath, and remember our patience. That might be more of a virtue than a negative, now that I think about it!
And finally, there’s the adventure called driving in Colombia. Motorists here are some of the craziest we’ve ever encountered. Trying to cross the street, even in a crosswalk, can be a near-death experience. And then there’s the motos (motorcycles): One in five Colombians owns one, and they buzz around your car like caffeinated bumblebees. Especially in Medellín, dodging the motos as they split lanes and run traffic lights is guaranteed to add excitement to your day!
But is Colombia safe??
If only we had a nickel for every time we’ve been asked this question! The short answer is YES. It’s been three decades since a certain drug cartel kingpin (whose initials are PE) was shot to death on a rooftop in Medellín. Colombia has come a long, long way since those violent times, and Colombians are very proud of how they’ve rebuilt their country and worked for peace. Yes, the cartels and paramilitaries are still around, and yes, it’s still a problem. But the days of indiscriminate bombings, kidnappings, and killings are all but gone. Coming from a country with a completely insane and out of control gun culture and a wanna-be dictator as president, we can say without reservation that we feel safer here than back in the U.S.
Colombia has changed so much in the past couple of decades that it’s been getting a lot of press lately not only as a tourist destination, but as a haven for expats. Here’s an example of the recent articles we’ve seen touting Colombia for expats.
What advice would you give others looking to retire abroad?
As I started putting together this section, I remembered that we covered this topic in a post back in 2019, just after we moved from Panama to Medellín. Although it’s a bit dated (for instance, we use eSIM now instead of local SIM cards when we travel), the advice is still valid.
How to Expat: What the glossy magazines don’t tell you
The only thing I’d really emphasize is the need to learn some of the local language. We do cover this in the post, but since we published it, our Spanish has improved by leaps and bounds. There are plenty of online resources out there for studying Spanish, such as Duo Lingo – but there really is no substitute for true immersion. And when we moved to Colombia, and especially El Retiro, we were truly immersed. We still have a LONG way to go, and we know we’ll never be fluent, but we can manage most conversations and get our point across, most of the time. It’s not only important for getting business done, but it means we can have richer, more meaningful connections with our Colombian friends.
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37 Comments
Your passion for the lifestyle you’ve sought and found is so inspiring. If only my husband would get on an airplane. When Leslie and I visited in 2019, we were blown away by the pride of the Colombian people and how clean and safe and full of life it was. I hope to get back one day! You two have been my inspiration since you sailed out under the Golden Gate Bridge and sought a different life. Not many that brave! I love taking mental trips with you. Thanks for being such a wonderful (inherited) writer. Much love to you both😍💞
Aw, thanks so much, Kay! That was such a fun visit from you and Leslie. You were our first family visitors in Colombia! Just hop on a plane and come down to see us. Maybe you can drag Leslie along again 🙂
I’m sorry we won’t see you in Colorado. Please give everyone our love from us.
Big love and hugs back!
This takes us back to our own exploratory days, discovering Medellin, and being amazed at how it was kept secret so long. Fully agree about the bureaucratic nature of things, and the hesitation to take our money! Many fun stories about that. Thanks for the post, stay well, stay happy, keep using your Espańol, and thanks for spelling COLOMBIA correctly! Feliz Dia!
Boy, we’d be in sad shape if we couldn’t spell COLOMBIA correctly by now :)! You guys were part of the inspiration for us to move to Medellín, remember? Abrazos a ti y Mariah y que tengan un gran dia!
My Spanglish saw El Retiro and thought it might be the highly appropriate The Retirement. Google translation confirmed that suspicion.
Thanks! Not everyone’s retired in El Retiro, but there are a bunch of us!
Hi Susan and John.
Thank you for your very special article!
Love, Janis 💖
You are very welcome, Janis! Hope you’re well. Big hugs from both of us!
Great post. We are always talking about becoming expats, but we’re not too serious about it yet. Sounds like it fits for you two. Maggie
Thanks, Maggie! I think you’ll know when the time is right. But you two already have such an adventurous life, as is. Keep traveling!
– Susan
Jake and I continue to miss you but we are so glad you made such a life changing decision.We are off to China and Tibet next month following the Silk Road and looking at Buddhist caves
You two continue to be our travel role models! We miss you too. Looking at a possible trip “down under” next year and, if we do, we’ll probably need to go through LAX. It would be great to see you. We’ll keep you posted.
We’re still in Panama, but at the beach now. Less rain, never need a sweater. Dec. 1 will mark 5 years in our current home and 15 years in Panama, including stints in Panama City before Boquete. Reading about your adventures helps me to avoid traveling, something I tolerate when we want to change where we live. Different strokes….
Congrats on your milestone and many more.
A
Thanks, Alan! So glad you’ve found your “spot.” We always liked the beach locales in Panama. Keep living the good life!
– Susan
Can’t believe it has been that long since you were my neighbors!!! I’m so happy to hear that you are loving life and that your decision was the right one!!! Lucky you, living the dream!
Shannon
Shannon! Oh goodness, how great to hear from you. It’s been a minute 🙂 Hope all is well there on Metz street. We loved that house and our neighbors, and the time we spent in Long Beach was fabulous. Take care and stay in touch!
– Susan
We have been gone since April 15, 2012, starting in Costa Rica!
Hi Paula! Are you still in San Miguel? Amazing how time has flown since those Boquete days. Hope you two are well and happy.
This was such a wonderful read, and I’m so pleased you’ve found a place to call home in El Retiro. It looks truly beautiful! The fact your Spanish is improving so much is also great and your comments about safety really resonated – not many places in the world feel “safe” at the moment, especially the US! We also plan to retire abroad, though to South East Asia, and you have inspired me 🙂
Thanks so much, Hannah! I hear you about finding safe places. It’s not easy these days. We look forward to hearing about your retirement plans as they progress. We have yet to travel to Southeast Asia, but it’s really high on our list. Thanks for reading!
It’s incredible how a decade has flown by– honestly, it feels as if 2015 was just a few years ago, not 10 years!!! I’m so glad you two are incredibly happy retiring and living abroad– similarly, I have this dream of retiring back in France (or elsewhere) when I retire…although I have decades to go! Random question, but as you two have been living in Colombia for seven years, do you intend to apply for Colombian citizenship, if possible? Or remain American expats? Thanks for sharing your milestone with us!
Hi Rebecca – thanks! I hear you, time is going by too fast. And the older we get, the faster it goes. That’s life, I guess. So yes, John is close to being eligible to apply for citizenship, and he’s planning on it. I’m a couple of years behind him in eligibility (I had to get a different kind of visa when we got to Colombia because I was still working), but it’s in the cards. We think it’s wise to have more than one passport in these times.
Take care and keep dreaming of that retirement in France!
As you know, we love Colombia as well. Of all the countries we’ve explored in depth on this South American continent, it remains the only one we might settle one day. We surely can vouch for El Retiro. 🙂 I’m glad you’ve decided to stay there for the time being.
And, yes, those motorcycle riders in your adopted country are crazy. The most crazy on the continent. And as annoying as mosquitoes. The only way to drive around here in a big camper is to ignore them.
Like you, we have a hard time answering the question “Where are you from?”
Hi Liesbet – if anyone gets how hard it is to answer that question, it’s you two! We’re traveling in Canada at the moment, and we usually lead with “Colombia.” Then we explain that we’re from California but haven’t lived there in a decade. We have encountered zero animosity from Canadians about our US roots (although they’re certainly entitled to it at the moment). But it’s nice to be able to say it’s not our home country anymore.
Hope you’re headed back our way at some point.
I don’t see my previous comment yet… Maybe it didn’t post? I returned to show you this article I just came across. I’m not surprised Colombia is at the top: https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20250922-the-best-countries-for-expats-in-2025
Hi Liesbet – yes, your previous comment posted. I’m a bit behind replying to the comments! But thanks for that link. I’m going to use it in the post.
Cheers,
Susan
I remember it was toward the end of your three-year tenure in Panama when I found your blog for the very first time. And I also still remember the stories you shared from Colombia during the early months and years of the pandemic. It sounds like El Retiro has been treating you well — it’s always great to live in a place where you can get around without having to rely on your car too much. So, I guess your plan to move to Spain has been indefinitely put on hold?
Hi Bama – wow, hard to believe we’ve been connected for that long! I hope we can actually meet face-to-face one of these days. We’d love to host you in Colombia if you’re ever in the neighborhood. And we fully plan on visiting Indonesia someday.
We changed course about moving to Spain or Portugal, after making an exploratory visit. It turns out US citizens are taxed deeply on their retirement income in both countries. The high tax burden, coupled with the fact that we would be going from a place with a very low cost of living to one that’s higher, was a deal-breaker. If either country ever changes its policy, moving to Europe might be on the table again. You never know with us!
Have a great day. 🙂
– Susan
That’s very kind of you! I’ve been thinking of visiting South America for many years now. But that trip to Mexico earlier this year made me realize just how far your part of the world is from mine. If I ever go to Colombia, I think I want to also visit other countries in the region (Peru is high on my list). Whenever you start planning a trip to Indonesia, please drop me an email. I’d be more than happy to help you with recommendations.
Ahh, for sure it makes more sense to live in a country where the taxes on the retirement income is lower. Colombia sounds like a great place anyway!
Loved reading about your journey during the past decade, my friends. In my eyes, you’re very courageous to make such a move. Sadly, every day seems like a new low in the US; thankfully you have escaped to a better place for your mental health.
Helllooo Lauren! And thanks. Yes, it’s really hard to read the news, wherever we are. Seems like every day brings something even more outrageous than the day before. We try to stay away from the news, but it’s hard – so much for our mental health :)! Hope you two are well in spite of everything. I do believe massive change is coming, and soon. Let’s keep hoping.
This is me smiling and clapping… well-done you two!!
Gracias, amiga! 🙂
Great fun reading your Q&A, Susan. Happy that life in your adopted country is working so well for you both. Steven and I mentioned just yesterday that if we were raising young children now in Denver, we would think seriously about moving back to my native Canada.
Thank you, Annie! We are in the home stretch of a big road trip through Atlantic Canada, and I have to say we are in love with your native country. If it weren’t for the winters, we’d think seriously about relocating here. You Canadians are so lovely and welcoming! But Denver’s a nice place to be, also. Take care!
Thanks for all the background to your move and the happy life you live now. I am very envious. 🙂 Mel
Thanks, Mel! We’re feel very blessed. Really, anyone can achieve the same with the right goals and planning. But it looks like you’re living your dream as well! Have a lovely day.