Yesterday was the biggest party day of the year for our Colombian town of El Retiro.
Slavery is a sad and painful chapter in the history of the “New World,” including, of course, the United States. Back during Spanish Colonial days, many Colombian landowners worked their mines and fields with enslaved people from Africa and local indigenous communities. In the 18th century, the area in and around what is now our hometown of El Retiro was pocked with gold, silver, and quartz mines, and enslaved people did the back-breaking work of excavating and processing the ores.
Two of the most prominent and wealthy landowners of the time were Señora Javiera Londoño and her husband, Ignacio Casteñeda. By the time of her death in 1766, the couple had liberated their entire workforce, well over 100 people. In her will, Sra. Londoño guaranteed the freedom of her workers and specified that they should be given a livelihood and property of their own. Many of those former slaves took the name Casteñeda, a surname that’s still very common in and around El Retiro. Here’s more about this fascinating story (in Spanish, but translatable with Google).
Every December just after Christmas, the Fiesta de los Negritos honors that heritage.
Sra. Londoño’s actions were unthinkable at the time, and they represented one of the earliest, if not the earliest, incidents of landowners freeing their enslaved workers in South America. It’s a heritage that the local citizens are justifiably proud of, and it has earned El Retiro the nickname “Cuña de la Libertad” – Cradle of Freedom.
Each year just after Christmas, El Retiro celebrates with the Fiesta de los Negritos, several days of music and merriment that draw thousands of people from throughout our department of Antioquia. The high point of the Fiesta de los Negritos is the colorful Desfile (parade) and a grand cabalgata (horse parade).
NOTE: As North Americans raised in a land of “political correctness,” we were taken aback by all of the blackface and portrayals of people of color that would be considered offensive by many in the U.S. We decided to view the parade with this lens: It isn’t meant to be racist, but rather a celebration of freedom and racial equality. If anyone’s offended by any of these images, we apologize in advance.
Here’s Wishing Everyone a Happy, Healthy, and Well-Traveled 2025!
Pin It!
19 Comments
It sounds like a wonderful celebration in remembrance of a remarkable woman and a life changing event in El Retiro’s history. How fun for you to be able to experience it. Maggie
Happiest New Year! ˚ ༘ ೀ⋆.˚
Back ‘atcha, Cindy! All the best for 2025.
It’s interesting when something considered highly offensive in one place is normal or even part of a celebration in another. I likely would have been taken aback at first, too. Thank you for sharing about El Retiro and its history and traditions.
Yup. We realized a while ago that living in another culture sometimes means adapting your mindset. It’s not always easy! This is a good case in point. Happy New Year!
The pageant and splendour of Latin American festivals are just fabulous, it’s impossible not to be whipped up in the atmosphere if you’re lucky enough to experience one !
So true – and we’re lucky enough to have a front-row seat to so many festivals here! Happy New Year to you both! 🙂
And to you guys!
Well, I like the sound of Señora Javiera Londoño! And such an interesting and colourful celebration. It is interesting about viewing the celebration through a certain lens – this is clearly an important part of the culture and heritage of the city.
Hi Hannah! Yes, something tells me Javiera and I would be friends 🙂 And yes, it’s always interesting to see how other cultures approach things. It’s part of being an expat, for sure! And Retiro has a tremendous amount of civic pride built around the story of Javiera and her workers. It’s inspiring.
What I can say as a non-U.S. citizen is that the world is too big and complex to only be seen using an American point of view. In the matter of cultural appropriation, for example, many things that are deemed politically incorrect in the U.S. can generate the exact opposite response in other parts of the world where the locals see them as cultural appreciation. Thank you for this brief history of Señora Javiera Londoño and Ignacio Casteñeda, and Happy New Year! I look forward to your upcoming trips!
Hi Bama – as usual, you nailed it 🙂 The people of El Retiro are not inherently racist – and everything they do to plan this big celebration is centered around civic pride and the message that no one should ever be enslaved. It’s inspiring. And I think it takes living abroad, or traveling extensively, to really “get it.” I wish more U.S. people had that opportunity.
Seems like a lively and colorful festival where they have turned a dark chapter into a celebration of life and freedom. Wishing you all good things in the year ahead 🙂
Thanks so much, Meg! It says so much about the spirit of Colombians, the celebration of overcoming hardship and dark days. Same to you and your family! And on another note – did you redesign your blog? it looks great!
Thank you! I’ve been working on it little by little 🙂
Happy New Year! Keep going. Cheers, Muriel
Happy New Year to you and your family, dear Muriel. Hope all is well with you and your family!
I look forward to visiting El Retiro this year and attending this festive celebration. I am a newly retired teacher and considering living in the El Retiro area for its excellent climate and quality of life. I will also be taking a Spanish language course. I am hoping that I will be warmly welcomed! Gracias! Nos Vemos!
Welcome in advance to El Retiro! You will love it here.