When “disappeared” became a noun
On Sept. 11, 1973 (yep, Sept. 11), a military coup d’etat overthrew Chile’s democratically elected president, Salvador Allende, and installed a brutal right-wing dictator, Augusto Pinochet. Lasting almost 17 years, the Pinochet dictatorship was one of the darkest and most tragic periods in South American history. Political parties and trade unions were banned, and any form of dissent – especially in the early days of Pinochet’s regime when he was consolidating his power – could get a person captured, tortured, disappeared, or executed.
As South America’s first duly elected Marxist president, Allende was described as a socialist committed to democracy. His leftist reforms had wreaked some havoc in the Chilean economy, and the Cold War was still raging. With the perceived threat of communism, Chile was ripe for a right-wing takeover, and on Sept. 11 it was swift and brutal. The Chilean military attacked and bombed the presidential palace, where Allende was holed up. Rather than be taken hostage or worse, he shot himself with an automatic rifle that was supposedly given to him by Fidel Castro. Or did he? Some people question where Allende killed himself or was assassinated, but the official consensus was suicide.
To our dismay (but not surprise), we learned the extent of U.S. involvement in Pinochet’s coup. In fact, before Pinochet took power, our CIA had been actively working behind the scenes to undermine and destabilize the Allende administration, manipulating elections and forcing economic hardships. For instance, the CIA orchestrated a trucker strike that removed groceries from shelves and gave Chileans a handy target, Allende, to blame. Some say the coup itself was backed by the CIA, although that is up for debate. It would not surprise us, since during that period any left-wing regime or movement that smacked of communism was in the crosshairs of the U.S. – no matter how bloodthirsty or immoral the opposition might be. (We learned about this first-hand when we visited Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatemala aboard our sailboat in 2003.)
According to Chile’s National Commission for Truth and Reconciliation, well over 2,000 people were disappeared or killed and almost 40,000 were held, and often tortured, as political prisoners. The Disappeared, as they came to be known, were mothers, fathers, sons, daughters, grandparents, the people next door – and their crime was opposing the Pinochet dictatorship. And many of them have never been found. It was state-sponsored terrorism on a staggering scale, and it changed Chile forever.
***
The Chilean dictatorship had always existed in an abstract corner of our minds, but on our recent visit to Santiago, Chile’s capital, we learned a great deal more. For visitors seeking to truly understand this enormous tragedy, we recommend two stops: Londres 38 and the Museum of Memory and Human Rights. Both of these locations rank with the Anne Frank house in Amsterdam or Auschwitz in Poland: They will make you feel uncomfortable, ashamed, and deeply sad. But we believe such experiences are necessary in order for us to learn from history, appreciate the fragility of human dignity and rights, and fight to avert similar tragedies in the future.
Londres 38
In Santiago’s downtown near the financial district is a quaint cobblestoned street named Londres (London). Nearby is one of Santiago’s most photographed street corners, Londres y Paris. But walk up a couple of blocks and you’ll reach Londres 38, an unassuming house that was one of the most notorious detention and torture centers of the Pinochet dictatorship.
Before the coup, Londres 38 was the communal headquarters for the Socialist Party of Chile – so it’s no accident that Pinochet’s intelligence directorate chose the house for such an evil purpose. By 1975, at least 1,000 detainees had been passed through Londres 38, and close to 100 – included two pregnant women – were executed on site. Many more were disappeared or tortured using methods too shocking and brutal to recount here.
Londres 38 is today a museum dedicated to the victims of Pinochet’s terrible regime and a space for social organizations and individuals to honor their memories. The house is essentially unchanged since those dark days, with peeling paint, creaky stairways, and a pervading air of tragedy. Walking through, we could almost hear the cries of the people who suffered so much here more than 50 years ago.
Tips: Admission to Londres 38 is free. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday, 11:00-1:30 and 3:00-5:30. Visit the Londres 38 website here.
The Museum of Memory and Human Rights
This landmark museum (in Spanish, el Museo de Memoria y los Derechos Humanos ) commemorates the victims of human rights violations under the Pinochet dictatorship. The museum was inaugurated in 2010 by then-president Michelle Bachelet, herself a victim of torture during the Pinochet dictatorship.
Tips: The Museum of Memory and Human Rights also has free entry (as do most museums in Santiago). It’s closed on Monday, but open every other day from 10:00 to 6:00. The museum is located right off the Quinta Normal Metro station in the Yungay barrio; in fact, there’s an entrance on the lower level of the station.
They dance alone
Cueca, Chile’s national dance, is usually performed by couples to represent the different emotions and stages of romance. During the Chilean dictatorship. La Cueca Sola emerged as one of the most potent and enduring symbols of the atrocities committed by Pinochet’s regime.
In La Cueca Sola, women dance by themselves to remember their husbands, sons, brothers, or lovers who were disappeared or exiled. The women will often wear photos of their lost loved one and wave a white handkerchief to symbolize justice.
La Cueca Sola has become a potent symbol of justice and human rights and an inspiration for artists and musicians all over the world. In 1987, Sting recorded this memorable song, They Dance Alone, in honor of the women who were left behind and their disappeared loved ones.
What can we learn from Chile’s tragic past?
If you’re a regular reader, you know we usually avoid politics in this blog. But we’re making an exception this time, because what’s happening in the U.S. is transcending politics and ringing alarm bells all over the world. Of course, there are key differences between the Pinochet dictatorship and the current want-to-be-fascist regime in the U.S. Rather than taking power with a military coup, Trump was duly elected last November (although it was far from the landslide he likes to brag about). In some ways, that fact is even more chilling, because it means a third of the U.S. electorate was willing to vote him in for a second term.
Almost every day, new actions are taken to send us further down the slippery slope to authoritarianism: the attack on diversity, equity, and inclusion; the demonization of immigrants and LGBTQ; the censoring of media and the muzzling of student protestors; the actions to alienate our longterm allies and cozy up to dictators; the drastic cuts to vital government services and global aid; the efforts to undermine the U.S. economy and enrich billionaires. It’s terrifying to see how quickly this has all come about, and how many of our countrymen and countrywomen are on board with what’s happening (the true definition of a cult).
During these dark times, we’re clinging to hope. We know our fellow U.S. citizens, at least most of them, are decent people who haven’t lost all their common sense. And we take comfort in the fact that at least two thirds of eligible voters DID NOT vote for this person. There are many efforts underway to curb Trump’s relentless drive to become a king (which is his desire, in so many words). In less than two years, mid-term elections offer the chance for Democrats to regain control of the House and possibly the Senate, where impeachment proceedings can begin. So far, constitutional protections such as freedom of speech are still intact.
32 Comments
Thank you so much for sharing this, Susan.
Thank you for reading, Glen. This might be the most important post we’ve done.
Amen y gracias. When I began to read this article, I was hoping this would be how it ended. Destination arrived!
Thanks so much for reading to the end! We debated about moving the trumpy stuff up higher, but we wanted to keep the focus on “the cautionary tale.” If even one Trump voter is swayed by this, we’ll be happy.
An excellent piece, Susan and John. I remember the years Pinochet was the leader, because we got regular news reports, and I also remember when Sting realeased his record “They dance alone”. It was dreadful time. I also applaud your sentiment about similar things starting in the US, extremely worrying, to say the least.
On a slightly brighter note, Michael and I need to visit Chile before I/we are much older!
Very best regards,
Cath and Michael Joy. ( In Panama, still!)
Hi Cath, and thank you for your comment! I also remember news reports about Chile, and when that Sting song was popular. I didn’t give it nearly enough thought at the time. But the world was a different place, and the U.S. wasn’t under the kind of threat it’s facing now. And yes, you should visit Chile – it’s a fascinating place! Any plans to come to Colombia?
I was wondering where this might end up. Loved the connections you have made. Excellent post.
Thank you both for sharing and hoping to enlightening many
Thanks for reading, Warner. Keep fighting the good fight!
I have no other words for it than that this path the US and its government are on is insane, incompressible, and utterly stupid. It’s destroying everything positive that has come about in the last decade or longer. If there’s one thing that history taught us, it’s that history hasn’t taught us anything! It’s like the people who voted for that guy turned dumb, immediately, and/or lost all common sense or belief in values.
By the way, we just saw a monument remembering (thanking) Pinochet for building the Carretera Austral…
Thanks, Liesbet. I don’t know what it is about humans that we refuse to learn from our mistakes. Greed is a big motivator, I think – people want all the goodies, and they don’t care who gets hurt in the bargain. Somehow Trump voters got sold a bill of goods that their groceries would start costing less on day one. I always knew they’d be in for a big surprise, and that they won absolutely nothing last November. But I do think the tide is turning.
Interesting about that monument. In Chile we learned that quite a few people still support Pinochet – I guess it’s a little like the folks in Medellin who still revere Pablo Escobar because he built houses and schools in some of the barrios. Evil masquerading as good is the worst kind, I think. And another interesting factoid is that Pinochet was actually voted out of office in a democratic election that he called. And he lived into his 90s. What a strange world.
Thank you so much for writing about Chile and its dark past. Regarding the current situation here in the USA, it is truly disturbing to me especially as one of the few conservatives who never voted for the current President. I wrote in my vote during each presidential election he was in.
Thanks so much for your comment, Scott. I’m willing to bet that a lot more conservatives didn’t vote for him, since only 1/3 of the electorate put him in office. This is what I meant when I said most of us are decent people with common sense. We might not see eye to eye politically on everything, but I do think most of us agree that the current administration is a menace. There’s hope in that, I think. Keep up the good fight!
Wow, what a moving post. I didn’t know much about Chile’s history, but it’s truly terrifying. The museums are so important to retain the memory and learn from the past – I would love to visit both one day. As many commenters below say, there is a lot wrong in the world today, and we never seem to learn from our previous mistakes.
Thanks, Hannah. Sadly, I don’t think the people in power are reflective enough to learn from history. And that’s what’s really scary. But I do feel hopeful that enough people will be fed up soon that Trump will be stopped. Especially when his crazy policies start really hitting their pocketbooks.
I remember Pinochet’s government and hearing of the atrocities, but didn’t know of CIAs involvement. I also didn’t know that Sting’s song had anything to do with Chile. So much to learn in this post.
As for your current government, it is frightening to know that 1/3 of Americans voted for him, but also that many more didn’t vote against him. Not voting is the same as voting for him. I can’t even get into the lies he’s telling about Canada (and the rest of the world), nothing he has said is true. It’s scary times up here, thanks to our former best friend. But he has brought Canada together and our patriotism to the forefront, so that we will never be a part of the US.
I know I’m preaching to the choir. 😊 Maggie
Thanks, Maggie – I remember hearing that Sting song and the words “Hey Mr. Pinochet” and somehow vaguely connected it to the dictatorship in Chile, but that’s about as far as it went. And it’s outrageous that that one third who didn’t vote at all are the ones that put Trump in office. It’s infuriating. And I will say to you what we say to all of our Canadian friends – that we are SOOO SORRY. He does not speak for most of us, and we love Canada and Canadians. Trust me, most of what he says is bluster, and he’ll be changing his tune next week and on to the next shiny thing. Ugh, I loathe him. Anyway, thanks for your comment.
I know it’s not you guys. Thanks for the love 😊🩷
Mwah! <3
I remember it very well. Terrible time. Muriel
I remember it very well. Muriel
Thanks, Muriel. So do I. I wish I had paid more attention to what was happening in Chile – this trip was truly eye-opening. And on a side note – I say this to every Canadian we meet, but we are SO SORRY about the insults to our closest and best ally. I know you know this, but most of us love Canada and we’re pretty horrified about the evil one’s anti-Canada rhetoric and actions. We are in solidarity with you.
I timely post. I too am horrified by current events, and how much they resemble moments from the past that just get ignored (or were never learned about; I definitely didn’t know this piece of Chilean history). I do hope one day humanity as a whole will realize we can learn from our past mistakes.
Me too, Diana. I am still hopeful that folks in the U.S. will soon become outraged enough to make a difference and put a stop to the craziness in the White House. When it all starts to really hit people’s pocketbooks, I think we’ll see a massive revolt. And if they start going after Social Security and Medicare, people won’t stand for that. But I never thought Trump would be reelected. Such crazy, uncertain times.
Reading this reminds me Indonesia’s own dark past, especially the 32-year beginning in 1966 when the country was under a dictatorship. The pretext? The previous administration was deemed too lenient to the left. What a period in history the Cold War era was! However, unlike in Chile, there is no monuments or museums to commemorate those who were persecuted here — at least not that I know of. I don’t know if it’s an Asian thing, but I think we in this part of the world tend to hide such dark chapter of our history to “save face”. Sadly, it seems like today right-wing populists are on the rise across the globe.
So true, Bama. There does seem to be a worldwide swing to the right, which is quite scary. And I was not aware that Indonesia also suffered under a right-wing dictatorship. I hope we’re not about to see history repeating itself, all over the world.
Thank you for this powerful post. Mel
Thanks for reading, Mel!
Thank you for your thoughtful post. The Museum of Memory and Human Rights was one of the most moving we’ve ever visited. I’m sorry we missed Londres 38. For those of us that travel a lot, the sadness in seeing these types of museums all over the world can be overwhelming. Whether it’s Cambodia or the southern United States, it’s just tragic to see man’s inhumanity. I’m not sure about your statistic of 2/3 of registered voters not voting for Trump, but the country is terribly split and the Democratic Party seems out of touch with the American people. The next 4 years will be a real test of American democracy.
Steve
Thanks for your comment, Steve. Here’s how we arrived at that 2/3 figure: According to all the sources I could find, more than a third of people eligible to vote, registered and unregistered, did not vote. (In my original post, I referred to them as “registered” – I changed that.) Of the remaining two thirds, the popular vote was pretty evenly split between Trump and Harris (with Trump squeaking by with just enough votes to win the electoral college). Ergo, the Harris voters and the non-voters make up two thirds.
Here are a couple of articles to back this up:
https://www.cfr.org/article/2024-election-numbers
https://www.usnews.com/news/national-news/articles/2024-11-15/how-many-people-didnt-vote-in-the-2024-election
And on a philosophical note, I wonder what’s worse: a party that’s out of touch with voters (we agree on that) or a candidate that tells lies to make voters think he “gets” them? (When the truth is anything but.)
Have a great day!
– Susan
Hello John, thank you for writing this informative post, very much needed during these difficult times in the U.S. I myself fear that the U.S. is quickly becoming a dictatorship and an authoritative government. I’m sure you have seen how people with legal status in the U.S. are losing their rights and being “snatched” on the streets and taken to detention centers without due process. These are people who are not in the U.S. illegally! Imagine what U.S. citizens can expect… It’s sad and scary.
I think your post about Chile’s Pinochet Dictatorship has so much to teach us if we are willing to listen. Even though this is a very sad and dark part in Latin America’s history, it needs to be told! In my opinion, this has been one of you best posts. 😊
Thank you, Liz. We agree that this might be one of the more important posts we’ve done. And yes, the situation of immigrants being denied due process and whisked away for no reason is horrifying. And very, very scary. It just seems that every day we wake up to some new barrage of bad news, some new group whose civil rights are being violated, some new report of court orders being ignored, even those from the Supreme Court. I don’t know what the end game is here. I guess the only solace is that dictatorships eventually play themselves out, and countries generally come out the other side in better and more democratic shape. Chile’s a good example. But the cost . . .
Anyway, we hope you and your family are enjoying a lovely Easter in spite of everything. Be well.