Isla Fuerte: Colombia’s Little-Known Paradise

Isla Fuerte, Colombia is the prettiest Caribbean island you’ve probably never heard of.

For his 70th birthday in July, John had three requests: sun, beach, and a full-service resort where we could dig our feet in the sand. We considered going back to busy San Andres or one of our favorite Colombian getaways, Santa Marta. Instead, we decided to go off the beaten path to Isla Fuerte, a tiny coral island about 11 km off Colombia’s Caribbean coast.

Isla Fuerte’s human history dates to the 18th century, when the Spanish used the island as a fortress (hence the name, Fort Island). Legend has it that some famous pirates hung out there – and rumors of hidden treasure persist. Since so much of the island is given over to mangroves and inaccessible jungle, I don’t doubt it!

Isla Fuerte today has a population of less than 2,000 (not counting the burros), and folks support themselves by fishing and by working in the small but growing tourism industry. Most of the time there are very few visitors, although those numbers swell during Colombia’s main holiday times (namely Christmas, January and Easter Week).

At just under 2 km in diameter and only 2.5 km from north to south, Isla Fuerte is pretty easy to explore in less than a day. Life is langourous and no one’s in a hurry. The island is criss-crossed with shady, well-trodden footpaths, and herds of wild donkeys roam at will and with ease. There’s no airport, no high-rise hotels, few restaurants, and no motorized vehicles apart from the odd motorcycle. What you will find are gorgeous beaches fronting gin-clear Caribbean waters, lush jungles with enormous ficus trees, fantastic fresh seafood, and friendly people. Isla Fuerte is a little slice of off-the-radar paradise.

Sleepy Puerto Limon

Puerto Limon is the main village on Isla Fuerte, and it’s a place that seems always to be taking a siesta. Nothing moves fast or happens quickly here. But Puerto Limon is as colorful as it is quiet.

Bustling Monteria

To reach Isla Fuerte, we flew from Medellín to Monteria – a medium-sized city in northern Colombia. Sited on the broad River Sinú, which drains to the Caribbean, Monteria is an inland seaport that’s known for its cattle ranching and distinct cultural heritage.

We can’t say Monteria is our favorite Colombian city, but it does have its charms. The Ronda del Sinú park fronts the river for about 4 km, making it one of the longest river walks in South America. Keep an eye out for the planchones (covered rafts), which have been shuttling passengers back and forth across the Sinú for generations. The pretty main square boasts a beautiful white church, the Catedral San Jerónimo.

Getting There

There’s a reason Isla Fuerte is off the tourist radar: It’s not terribly easy to get to. There are several daily flights from Medellín to Monteria. From there, it’s a 1.5-hour drive to the gritty little port town of Paso Nuevo, where you can hire a launch to take you to the island. It’s also possible to reach Paso Nuevo by bus from Cartagena, although the overland distance is further.

We hired a private driver to take us from Monteria to Paso Nuevo. From there, we met a launch sent by the Hotel Coral de Fuego, which conveniently dropped us off right on the hotel’s beach. Try to time the launch ride for the morning, when the water’s calmer.

Our Lodging

In Monteria, we enjoyed our stay at the Hotel Florida Sinú. It’s modern, comfortable, and conveniently located, with a super-friendly and helpful staff.

On Isla Fuerte, the Hotel Coral de Fuego was the perfect place to hang our hats. Situated right on the southwest beach, the Coral de Fuego is one of a few small eco-resorts that are popping up as Isla Fuerte continues to be discovered by visitors. The resort is not much more than a grouping of small villas around a pretty pool, with a communal lounge and bar/restaurant. It’s a great value, with a kind and accommodating staff. Note: The best way to book a room is through the hotel’s WhatsApp number: +57-300-480-3374.

Where We Ate

In Monteria, our two favorite dining experiences were at the Del Toro Steakhouse and at Terralontana, a fantastic Italian restaurant in the Alamedas shopping mall.

On Isla Fuerte, don’t miss Doña Nere, a cozy seafood place in Puerto Limon. The hostess, Nere, takes her time preparing her delicious, from-scratch meals – but the wait is worth it. We also enjoyed all our meals at our hotel, the Coral de Fuego.

Next: Reflections on Ten Years as Expats! Where has the time gone?